The Amalfi of the Feet: Uncovering Campania's Best Hiking Trails

When one imagines Italy's Campania region, the mind instantly conjures a symphony of sensory delights: the chaotic, vibrant energy of Naples, the haunting, silent ruins of Pompeii, and the breathtaking, vertiginous beauty of the Amalfi Coast, where pastel-colored villages cling to cliffs above a sparkling sea. This is a landscape celebrated from a thousand viewpoints, often experienced through the window of a car or the deck of a boat. Yet, to truly understand the soul of Campania—to feel its volcanic pulse, trace its ancient pathways, and discover its hidden, silent corners—one must travel by foot. Hiking here is not merely a recreational activity; it is a form of time travel, a culinary pilgrimage, and a profound connection with a land shaped by myth, fire, and the relentless sea.

The true magic of hiking in Campania lies in its staggering diversity. Within a relatively compact area, you can traverse the raw, cratered summit of an active volcano, follow shepherd paths through wild, flower-strewn mountains, and walk legendary coastal trails with vistas that defy description. This guide explores the best hiking routes, offering a journey from the heavens to the sea.

1. The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei): The Crown Jewel of the Amalfi Coast

No hiking itinerary in Campania is complete without experiencing the Sentiero degli Dei. Starting from the small village of Bomerano, high above Positano in the town of Agerola, this path truly earns its divine name. The trail, originally a mule track connecting remote villages, unfolds along the spine of the Lattari Mountains, offering uninterrupted, heart-stopping views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the coastline far below.

The hike is moderately challenging, mostly level or descending if walked from Bomerano to Nocelle (near Positano), covering approximately 6 kilometers. The terrain is a mix of rocky paths, stone steps, and dirt tracks, often carved directly into the cliff face. As you walk, the world of traffic and crowds fades away, replaced by the scent of wild rosemary, broom, and myrtle. The only sounds are your footsteps, the distant hum of a boat, and the call of birds of prey circling overhead.

The vistas are the main event. You look down upon the fjord-like inlet of Praiano, the iconic Faraglioni rocks of Capri shimmering on the horizon, and the sheer drop to the sea, where villages like Positano appear as miniature models. The path concludes in the quiet hamlet of Nocelle, from which a long, scenic staircase descends to Positano. The reward for your efforts? A well-deserved lemon granita at a cliffside bar, tasting all the sweeter after the journey.

2. The Volcano's Roar: Summiting Mount Vesuvius (Gran Cono)

Hiking the Path of the Gods feels like walking amongst the deities; hiking Mount Vesuvius feels like confronting the raw power that created them. This is a hike of profound historical and geological significance. The ascent to the Gran Cono (Great Cone) begins at an altitude of about 1,000 meters, reached by road. The final climb is a steep, ash-covered path that loops around the crater's rim.

This is a short but strenuous hike, taking about 30-45 minutes to complete the circuit. The terrain is loose volcanic rock and ash, requiring good footwear. As you ascend, the Bay of Naples unfolds beneath you in a breathtaking panorama. To the north lies the sprawling city of Naples, to the south the ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum—a stark reminder of the mountain’s destructive capability.

The true climax is peering into the crater itself. It’s a vast, barren bowl of colored rock, with steam vents (fumaroles) hinting at the slumbering giant beneath your feet. There is a palpable sense of standing on the edge of something immense and unpredictable. This hike is less about pastoral beauty and more about awe-inspiring power. It connects you directly to the event that forever shaped this region’s history, making it an essential, humbling experience.

3. The Wild Heart: The Trails of the Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park

For those seeking solitude and unspoiled nature, venturing south of the Amalfi Coast into the Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a revelation. This is a land of ancient forests, mysterious caves, and empty beaches, far from the tourist trail. Two standout hikes define this area.

First, the hike to the Calore River Gorges and the Pertosa-Auletta Caves. This trail follows the turquoise waters of the Calore River through deep limestone canyons, rich with vegetation. The area is a haven for wildlife, including otters and rare birds. The hike can be combined with a visit to the incredible Pertosa Caves, the only river caves in Italy that can be explored by boat, offering a subterranean adventure.

Second, and perhaps the most mythical, is the ascent of Monte Cervati. As the highest peak in Cilento at 1,899 meters, it offers a challenging but immensely rewarding day hike. The trail winds through beech forests and opens onto high-altitude meadows. From the summit, the view is unparalleled: the Cilento coast to the west, the Pollino National Park to the south, and on a clear day, the distant peak of Mount Etna in Sicily. This is the wild, authentic Italy, where you are more likely to meet a shepherd with his flock than another hiker.

4. Island Escapes: The High Path of the Phlegraean Fields and Capri's Natural Beauty

Campania’s hiking treasures extend to its islands, offering a different perspective.

On the island of Ischia, the Sentiero Alto dei Campi Flegrei (High Path of the Phlegraean Fields) provides a stunning circuit of the island's highest point, Monte Epomeo (789 meters). The trail passes through lush vineyards, medieval ruins, and offers panoramic views of the entire Gulf of Naples. The climb to the summit, where a hermitage is carved into the green tufa rock, is particularly memorable. Descending into the village of Sant'Angelo, a fisherman’s paradise, for a swim in the thermal waters is the perfect finale.

On Capri, beyond the glamorous Piazzetta, lies a network of beautiful trails. The most famous is the path from the Gardens of Augustus to the Natural Arch and the Belvedere of Migliera. This relatively easy walk winds through fragrant pine woods and opens onto viewpoints overlooking the iconic Faraglioni from above. For the more adventurous, the hike to the Matterhorn of Capri, Monte Solaro, from the village of Cetrella, is a steep climb through terraced landscapes and wildflowers to the island’s highest point, offering 360-degree views.

Practical Tips for Hiking in Campania

• When to Go: The best seasons are spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October). Summers can be intensely hot, making hiking uncomfortable and potentially dangerous.
• Footwear is Key: Trails are often rocky, uneven, and steep. Sturdy, broken-in hiking boots with good ankle support are non-negotiable.
• Hydration and Supplies: Always carry more water than you think you’ll need, especially on coastal and volcanic trails where shade is scarce. While villages have cafes, stretches between them can be long.
• Navigation: While main trails like the Path of the Gods are well-marked with red-and-white signs, having a detailed map or a GPS app like Maps.me is wise, especially in more remote areas like Cilento.
• The Culinary Reward: Hiking in Italy is as much about the food as the scenery. Plan your hike to end near a village trattoria. Your reward awaits: a plate of fresh spaghetti alle vongole (with clams) on the coast, a hearty dish of lamb and potatoes (agnello e patate) in the mountains, or the simple, sublime joy of a buffalo mozzarella from the plains near Paestum.

In conclusion, to hike through Campania is to engage with the region on its own terms. It is to trade the curated postcard view for an intimate, sweat-earned perspective. It’s the crunch of volcanic rock underfoot, the scent of lemon groves carried on a sea breeze, and the profound silence of a mountain summit overlooking millennia of history. These trails are the threads that weave together the true tapestry of this magnificent land—a tapestry best experienced one step at a time.