The Open Road in Lombardy: A Journey Through Italy's Beating Heart

Lombardy, Italy's economic powerhouse, is often unfairly pigeonholed by visitors who see it as little more than the gateway of Milan's Malpensa Airport, a transit point on the way to Venice, Florence, or Rome. This perception, however, overlooks one of Italy's most diverse and stunningly beautiful regions. To reduce Lombardy to its global-fashion capital is to miss the essence of its soul, which is best discovered not from a high-speed train, but through the intimate, liberating experience of a road trip. Here, the open road unfolds like a rich tapestry, weaving together majestic alpine scenery, serene glacial lakes, rolling vineyard-clad hills, and art-laden cities that whisper stories of centuries past. This is a guide to the best travel routes for uncovering the profound and varied beauty of Lombardy.

Route 1: The Great Lakes Circuit – A Symphony of Water and Mountains

This iconic route is the quintessential Lombardy road trip, a journey of breathtaking vistas and la dolce vita that has captivated artists and aristocrats for centuries. A circular tour starting and ending in Milan can be comfortably covered in four to five days.

• Leg 1: Milan to Lake Como (Lecco) – The Southern Approach. Escape the urban sprawl of Milan by heading north on the A9 motorway towards Como. Instead of diving directly into the crowded city of Como, consider taking the eastern branch of the lake towards Lecco. The SS583 road, known as the Strada Regina, clings to the eastern shore, offering dramatic views of the lake framed by the pre-Alps. Stop in the charming town of Varenna, a cascade of colourful houses tumbling down to the water's edge. Visit the exquisite Villa Monastero and its botanical gardens before taking a short ferry ride to Bellagio, the "Pearl of the Lake," where you can wander its steep, cobbled streets.

• Leg 2: Lake Como to Lake Maggiore via the Northern Shores. From Bellagio or Varenna, drive north along the SP72, a road that reveals the lake's wilder, more rugged upper reaches. Pass through Menaggio and continue towards Colico before joining the SS36 heading west. You will soon descend upon Lake Maggiore. Your base here could be Stresa, an elegant town with a fin-de-siècle atmosphere. The highlight of Lake Maggiore is the Borromean Islands. Drive to Baveno or Stresa and park, then explore Isola Bella with its extravagant Baroque palace and tiered gardens, and the picturesque fishing village on Isola dei Pescatori.

• Leg 3: Lake Maggiore to Lake Lugano (the Italian part) and Back to Milan. While Lugano itself is in Switzerland, the lake's northern arm dips into Lombardy. From Stresa, drive west and then south, skirting the lake towards Laveno. Then, take a scenic drive through the hills towards Varese, known as the "Garden City." From here, descend into the tranquil Italian pocket of Lake Lugano. The town of Campione d'Italia is an Italian exclave surrounded by Swiss territory, a curious geopolitical anomaly. The road along the lake, particularly around Porto Ceresio, is stunningly beautiful. Finally, begin your journey back to Milan via the A8/A9 motorways, completing the circuit.

Route 2: The Oltrepò Pavese Wine Road – Tuscany's Secret Northern Cousin

South of the River Po lies Oltrepò Pavese, a vast area of rolling hills, medieval villages, and some of Italy's most underrated vineyards. Often called "Tuscany of the North," this route is a paradise for oenophiles and those seeking a slower, more rustic Italy. This can be a leisurely two-to-three-day trip from Milan.

• The Journey: Pavia to the Hilltop Villages. Start in the historic university city of Pavia, home to a magnificent cathedral and the Certosa di Pavia, a breathtaking Carthusian monastery that is an absolute masterpiece of Renaissance art—worth a detour before you even begin. From Pavia, take the SS617 towards Casteggio and then venture into the heart of the wine country. The true magic lies on the smaller provincial roads that weave through the vineyards.

• Key Stops: Follow the "Strada del Vino" (Wine Road) signs that will lead you to charming towns like Montù Beccaria, Montescano, and Fortunago, one of Italy's most beautiful villages, perched precariously on a hilltop. The landscape is a patchwork of vines, primarily cultivating Pinot Nero (Noir), used for making excellent sparkling wines (Metodo Classico) as well as reds and whites like Barbera, Croatina, and Riesling. Stop at any of the countless cantine (wineries) for tastings; many are family-run and welcome visitors with genuine warmth. Zavattarello is another gem, crowned by a ruined castle offering panoramic views. Spend a night in a agriturismo (farm stay), enjoying local cuisine like risotto con salame di Varzi (a protected salami) paired with a robust red Oltrepò Pavese wine.

Route 3: The Alpine Passes of Valtellina – Where Driving is an Adventure

For the driving enthusiast, the Valtellina valley offers one of Europe's most thrilling and scenic road trip experiences. This route is less about leisurely lakeside stops and more about the sheer exhilaration of conquering legendary mountain passes. This is a trip best undertaken between late spring and early autumn, when the high-altitude roads are free of snow. Allow three to four days.

• Leg 1: Milan to Sondrio via Lake Como. The journey north is part of the adventure. Drive up the eastern shore of Lake Como (SS38) from Lecco. This road, carved into the cliffs, is dramatic and sets the tone for what's to come. Base yourself in Sondrio, the main town of the valley, or in a smaller village like Tirano.

• Leg 2: The Stelvio Pass (Passo dello Stelvio). From Bormio, a famous ski resort, begins the ascent to the Stelvio Pass. This is the crown jewel of Alpine roads. With its 48 hairpin bends (60 in total from Prato allo Stelvio on the other side), it is a feat of engineering and a test of driving skill. The views from the top, at 2,757 meters (9,045 feet), are simply unparalleled—a breathtaking panorama of glaciers and peaks. Drive carefully, as the road is narrow and shared with cyclists tackling this legendary climb.

• Leg 3: The Bernina Pass and the Return via Lake Iseo. From Tirano, you can take a detour over the Bernina Pass into Switzerland, another stunning route that leads to St. Moritz. For the return journey to Milan, drive south along the Valtellina valley and then west towards Lake Iseo. This lesser-known lake offers a more intimate and authentic experience than its famous siblings. Visit the medieval fortress town of Sarnico, take a boat to Monte Isola, the largest lake island in Southern Europe, and explore the charming villages dotting the shoreline. The road along the western shore, leading down to the A4 motorway, provides a gentle and beautiful conclusion to your alpine adventure.

Practical Tips for Your Lombardy Road Trip:

• Car Choice: A small to medium-sized car is ideal for navigating narrow village streets and tight mountain bends.
• ZTLs (Zona a Traffico LimitatO): Be hyper-aware of these "Limited Traffic Zones" in historic city centers (like Milan, Pavia, and many small towns). Unauthorized entry results in heavy fines. Look for signs with a red circle and park outside the ZTL.
• Tolls: Lombardy's motorways (autostrade) are toll roads. They are efficient but can be expensive. Have cash or a credit card ready.
• Pacing: Don't try to do too much. The beauty of a road trip is the freedom to stop spontaneously at a vineyard, a viewpoint, or a village that catches your eye.

A road trip through Lombardy is an invitation to discover the profound contrasts that define Italy. It is the journey from the sleek, modern efficiency of Milan to the timeless, rugged beauty of the Alps; from the glamour of Lake Como to the earthy, authentic flavours of the Oltrepò Pavese. By taking to the road, you move beyond the postcard image and into the living, breathing heart of a region that continues to surprise and enchant at every turn.