Island Escapes: Discovering the Enchanting Lake Islands of Italy

When one envisions Italy, the mind typically conjures images of rolling Tuscan hills, the ancient ruins of Rome, or the romantic canals of Venice. Yet, nestled in the foothills of the Alps in the country's north lies a different, more serene Italy—a landscape of breathtaking lakes whose mirror-like surfaces are punctuated by islands of extraordinary beauty and history. While Lake Como and Lake Garda often steal the limelight, it is Lake Maggiore, stretching from the Piedmont and Lombardy regions into Swiss canton Ticino, that offers the most captivating and diverse collection of lake islands. Exploring the Borromean Islands and their neighbours is a journey into a world of aristocratic grandeur, botanical wonders, and timeless fishing village charm.

The Stage: Lake Maggiore

Before delving into the islands themselves, one must appreciate their stunning setting. Lake Maggiore, or ‘Verbano,’ is Italy’s second-largest lake. Its elongated form is cradled by dramatic, forested mountains that rise steeply from the water's edge. The climate is uniquely mild, a fortunate result of its geography, allowing a surprising proliferation of Mediterranean and even subtropical flora to thrive alongside native Alpine species. Palm trees, lemons, and oleanders line the promenades of elegant towns like Stresa, the main gateway to the islands. This "Lake of the Gentle Climate" has attracted poets, writers, and aristocrats for centuries, all seeking refuge and inspiration in its tranquil beauty. It is from the water, aboard one of the frequent ferry services, that the true magic of the lake unfolds, with each island revealing itself as a distinct jewel.

The Borromean Islands: A Trilogy of Aristocratic Splendour

The undisputed stars of Lake Maggiore are the three Borromean Islands—Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and Isola dei Pescatori. Named after the Borromeo family, who have owned them since the 16th century, these islands represent a powerful dynasty's vision and passion for beauty.

Isola Bella: The Baroque Masterpiece

As your ferry approaches Isola Bella (Beautiful Island), it appears as a vision straight out of a fairy tale. What was once a rocky outcrop inhabited by fishermen was transformed, starting in 1632, by Count Carlo III Borromeo for his wife, Isabella. The result is a spectacular Baroque palace that seems to float upon the water, but the true marvel lies behind it.

The Palazzo Borromeo is a treasure trove of art, with lavishly decorated rooms filled with tapestries, stuccowork, paintings, and antique furniture. However, the island's crown jewel is its incredible terraced gardens. Designed like a ship's prow pointing towards the open lake, the gardens are a multi-level symphony of fountains, statues, and ornamental flowerbeds. The pièce de résistance is the Teatro Massimo, an amphitheatre crowned by a unicorn (the symbol of the Borromeo family) and ten terraces representing the decks of a ship. Within the gardens are also white peacocks that roam freely, their brilliant plumage adding to the surreal, opulent atmosphere. Wandering through these gardens is to step back into the 17th century, an era where nature was artfully bent to human will to create a paradise on earth.

Isola Madre: The Botanical Sanctuary

In stark contrast to the formal grandeur of Isola Bella lies Isola Madre (Mother Island), the largest of the trio. This island is dedicated entirely to the peace and tranquillity of nature. Its English-style landscape garden, created in the early 19th century, is a masterpiece of botanical collection. Thanks to Lake Maggiore’s unique microclimate, plants from all over the world flourish here. You can stroll beneath towering Kashmir cypresses, fragrant eucalyptus trees, and rare varieties of camellias and azaleas.

The island feels like a wild, romantic park. The gentle sounds of pheasants and the iconic white peacocks replace the chatter of crowds. The Palazzo Borromeo on Isola Madre is more a country home than a showpiece palace. Its rooms are filled with family memorabilia, antique dolls, and theatre sets, offering an intimate glimpse into the Borromeo family's private life. The highlight is the stunning "Piazza dei Pappagalli," an aviary filled with colourful exotic birds. Isola Madre is the perfect destination for those seeking a quiet retreat, a place for contemplation amidst some of the most remarkable gardens in Italy.

Isola dei Pescatori: A Taste of Authenticity

Completing the Borromean trilogy is Isola dei Pescatori (Fishermen's Island), also known as Isola Superiore. This narrow strip of land provides a vital dose of reality and living history. Unlike its manicured neighbours, this island has a permanent, year-round community, and its character is entirely shaped by its fishing heritage.

The main street is a charming, narrow alleyway lined with quaint houses, small shops selling local crafts, and a succession of trattorias whose tables spill out almost to the water's edge. The air is filled with the irresistible aroma of fresh fish grilling. This is the place to sample the lake's culinary specialties, such as missoltini (sun-dried and salted agone fish) or pesce persico (perch), often served as a delicate filet. Climb to the simple, ancient church of San Vittore at the island's northern tip for a panoramic view back towards the village. Visiting Isola dei Pescatori, especially in the evening when the day-trippers have left, offers an authentic and deeply atmospheric experience of lake life.

Beyond the Borromean Islands: Hidden Gems of the Lake

While the Borromean Islands are the main attraction, Lake Maggiore holds other insular treasures worth discovering.

The Brissago Islands: A Botanical Bridge to Switzerland

Located in the Swiss part of the lake, near the town of Brissago, these two islands are another botanical wonder. Isola Grande (or San Pancrazio) is home to the Botanical Garden of the Canton of Ticino. Founded in the 1880s by the eccentric Baroness Antoinette de Saint-Léger, the garden now features over 1,500 plant species from Mediterranean climates around the world, organized by geographical region. It’s a fascinating global journey in a compact space. The smaller Isola di Sant’Apollinaire remains wild and natural, a sanctuary for local wildlife. A visit to the Brissago Islands combines a botanical excursion with the charm of crossing an international border by boat.

Isolino di San Giovanni: A Private Haven of History

Just off the shore of Verbania-Pallanza lies the tiny Isolino di San Giovanni. This privately owned island is famous for one very notable resident: the legendary conductor Arturo Toscanini. He owned a villa on the island from the early 20th century until his death, and it became a retreat for musical greats from around the world. While the villa is not open to the public, seeing the island from the water adds a layer of cultural history to the lake's narrative. It serves as a reminder of the enduring appeal these tranquil spots have held for creative minds.

Crafting Your Island-Hopping Itinerary

A trip to Lake Maggiore’s islands is best undertaken from the town of Stresa, which has the most frequent ferry connections. A typical day trip could start with the awe-inspiring Isola Bella in the morning, followed by a long, leisurely lunch on Isola dei Pescatori. The afternoon could then be dedicated to the peaceful wanderings of Isola Madre before returning to the mainland. For those with more time, a second day can be reserved for a boat trip to the Brissago Islands, exploring the charming Swiss town of Ascona upon return.

Conclusion

The lake islands of Italy, particularly those of Lake Maggiore, offer a travel experience that is both profoundly beautiful and wonderfully diverse. They are microcosms of history, art, and nature, each with its own unique personality. From the theatrical Baroque fantasy of Isola Bella to the serene botanical haven of Isola Madre and the authentic, lived-in charm of Isola dei Pescatori, these islands provide a captivating escape. They remind us that some of the most unforgettable journeys are not to vast countries, but to small, perfect worlds waiting to be discovered, just a short boat ride from the shore.